Combat Archery Construction Standards - 3/05/10

Tubular Construction Standards

How to Make Combat Archery Ammunition:

Illustrated Tutorial

1. Shafts
2. Length of Combat Arrows & bolts
3. Approved Heads for Sil-o-flex Arrows & Bolts
   1. Modified Baldar Blunt
   2. Rubber Stopper
4. Head-making
5. Fletching

The Written Construction standards above are the official construction standards. If instructions in this tutorial differ from the written construction standards or there are any questions about discrepancies between the two, the Written Construction Standards should be followed.

After January 1, 2009 Sil-O-Flex or approved equivalent will be the only approved tubular  shaft for combat archery in the Middle Kingdom.  Golf tubes are no longer approved at Society level which means we can't use them here in the Middle Kingdom. 

The shaft of combat arrows and bolts must be constructed of Sil-o-flex, or approved equivalent, with a pressure rating of 100 PSI, with 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) exterior diameter or 1 inch (2.5 cm) interior diameter.

In the Middle Kingdom sil-o-flex can be purchased at several locations such as Lowes . The sil-o-flex comes in rolls.  To make combat arrows or bolts you will have to cut the piece to the proper length and heat the sil-o-flex to straighten it.  There are SCA vendors that sell straight pieces also.

As mentioned before Sil-o-flex is a brand name and is not the only brand that can be used. 

If you do decided to use and make combat arrows and bolts using an equivalent you will have to bring the following with you when you have your equipment inspected.  A sample of the equivalent material that is marked on the outside of the tubing with the manufacturing specifications , It will include:

Marking

ASTM, NSF, and AWWA standards provide that pipe and tubing must be marked at frequent intervals. The labeling must include:

1. The manufacturer's name or trademark
2. The standard to which it conforms
3. Pipe size
4. Material designation code (PE 3406 or PE 3408)
5. DWV if for drainage piping
6. Pressure rating if applicable
7. DR number or Schedule number
8. If the pipe is for potable water, a laboratory seal

So you see, you can use an equivalent material but you have to be able to show that it is an approved equivalent material. 

LENGTH OF COMBAT ARROWS & BOLTS

Arrows - The final length of a Tubular (sil-o-flex or equivalent) combat arrow must be 28 inches long as measured from where the bow string touches the nock to the base of the approved head.  The 28 inch length is both the minimum and the maximum. A nock may be cut into the tail end, but may be no deeper than 1/2 inch (13 mm). Wooden nocks MAY NOT be installed or used.

Crossbow Bolts - The maximum length of a Tubular (sil-o-flex or equivalent) combat crossbow bolt is 28 inches measured from where the bow string touches the nock to the base of the approved head.  There is no minimum length for a crossbow bolt. Past history has shown 14 inch length² crossbow bolts fly well and works on most crossbows.

APPROVED HEADS FOR SIL-O-FLEX ARROWS & BOLTS

There are only two (2) approved heads for use on sil-o-flex (or equivalent ) shafts in the Middle Kingdom. They are Modified Balder Blunt Heads and Rubber Stopper Heads.

Baldar Blunt

The above images show an unmodified (classic) baldar blunt.

It must be modified for use on a sil-o-flex shaft. A modified Baldar blunt is placed over in end of the sil-o-flex or equivalent tube.  Any classic style of Baldar Blunt can be used in this manner, whether 1 or 2 piece mold or whether designed for fiberglass or wood.

Baldar blunts are modified by cutting the support fins away from the outer collar so that the blunt slides over the Sil-o-flex.

Fiberglass-reinforced (strapping) tape is the only tape approved for securing the Baldar onto the shaft. You may NOT use electrical tape or any other type tape. The standards do not state a brand of strapping tape to use but I would suggest buy the best brand you can find and afford. It takes you just as long to put on cheap strapping tape as it does a better quality strapping tape. The big difference it holds much longer and is stronger.

If you use 3/4 inch wide fiberglass-reinforced (strapping) tape you can get by with using four pieces.

The standard is the tape must start from at least 1 inch down on the sil-o-flex shaft (use your reference line) go up and over the Baldar and then down the shaft at least 1 inch to your reference line. You repeat this process until the head is completely covered with strapping tape going down the sil-o-flex shaft 1 inch.

Then secure the lengths crossing over the blunt and down the shaft with a wrap around the shaft to secure the ends of the strapping tape. A second wrap of strapping tape will be applied around the shaft where the sil-o-flex goes into the blunt. This side wrap of tape firms up this joining point.

For purposes of these photos different colored electrical tape was used to contrast the taping method.  Electrical tape is not legal for securing the blunt into the sil-o-flex shaft. The fiberglass-reinforced strapping tape will not look as neat as the electrical tape does in the photos.

	WARNING ! Check to insure that the proper PSI Sil-o-flex or equivelant is used. The photo to the left is 100 PSI while the photo to the right is 160 PSI. Notice the difference is thickness. The thickness of the 160 PSI tubing to the right is to thick and is not legal. People buy the 160 PSI because it comes straight. Both have the same inside diamenter but the outside diamenter is different.
	Photo 1: Make a mark 1 ½ inch down on the sil-o-flex shaft.   This is your reference line for tape. The white tape is only used to show the reference line more clearly for the photo. A red, black or silver sharpie magic marker will make a line you can see on the shaft.
	Photo 2: The modified Baldar slides over the end of the shaft and the shaft seats ½ inch into the inside of the Baldar. You will have 1 inch left of your original 1 ½ inch tape reference line.
	Photo 3:  Shows the first piece of tape going from the 1 ½ inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 ½ inch mark on the other side of the shaft.
	Photo 3:  Shows the second piece of tape going from the 1 ½ inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 ½ inch mark on the other side of the shaft.
	Photo 4:  Shows the third piece of tape going from the 1 ½ inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 ½ inch mark on the other side of the shaft.  This is filling in one of the gaps between the tape.
	Photo 5:  Shows the fourth piece of tape going from the 1 ½ inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 ½ inch mark on the other side of the shaft.  This is filling in the last gap between the tape.
	Photo 6: Shows a piece of tape (yellow for reference) wrapped around the shaft where the blunt goes into the sil-o-flex.
	Photo 7: Shows a piece of tape (yellow for reference) wrapped around the shaft to secure the ends of the tape coming down the shaft.

Foam for Baldar Blunt heads:

Resilient padding of at least ½ inch and at most 1 1/4  inches, after taping, is then added to the tip of the Baldar Blunt and secured with 3/4 inch fiberglass –reinforced tape. 

The diameter of the foam after taping must be at least 1.5 inches and the thickness at least ½ inch.  Hint for shape and size

Foam must be secured with fiberglass reinforced tape, using same method as for securing the head on the shaft.

You will need four pieces and the entire head of the foam will be covered.

The entire surface of the foam must be covered with fiberglass reinforced tape which extends down onto the shaft 1 inch.

Secure the lengths of the fiberglass reinforced tape crossing over the foam and down the shaft with a wrap around the shaft to secure the ends of the strapping tape.

A second wrap of strapping tape must be applied around the head where the foam and the head touch.  The tape must overlap both head and foam.  This side wrap of tape firms up this joining point.

You do not need a side wrap of foam if you use this style head. 

Rubber Stopper

A 6.5 size rubber stopper, with a 1/4 inch hole in the center, is placed in the end of the sil-o-flex or equivalent tube.   The standard 6.5 rubber stopper is one inch long.  The stopper must be inserted into the tube (1/2 inch) which is one half of its length .  The stopper with a hole in the center of it compresses to permit the required 1/2 inch insertion into the shaft. This is the only legal type of stopper for use in the Middle Kingdom.

Reworking Existing Solid Rubber Stopper Heads - Published March 2009 Pale by Count Alaric Lefevre, Earl Marshal of the Middle Kingdom: Any existing ammo made with solid rubber stoppers can be reworked and have a 1/4 inch hold drilled into it to meet the new standard as soon as possible but not to exceed being done by July 20, 2009.

There are two approved methods of attaching the stopper to the sil-o-flex. The first way is the traditional method described below using cord to lace the stopper onto the shaft. The second method utilizes tape to secure the stopper to the shaft but may be used ONLY as long the the described construction method is followed.

Traditional Lacing Method for rubber stoppers (Alternate Method)

The rubber stopper must be attached with 1/8 inch or less diameter strong cord.  Cross two pieces of cord through the shaft, underneath the base and over the stopper.  Be sure the knots are located on the side of the blunt and not on the tip. The cord must be securely taped to the rubber stopper using a minimum 3/4 inch fiberglass-reinforced tape, with the knots positioned away from contact surfaces. You can put a touch of glue onto the knot to help keep it from loosening up. The strapping tape must start 1 inch down on the shaft (measured after the rubber stopper is in the shaft) go up over the stopper and then down the shaft at least 1 inch. Secure the lengths crossing over the head and covering the cord that run down the shaft with a wrap around the shaft to secure the ends of the strapping tape. A second wrap of strapping tape will be applied around the shaft where the rubber stopper goes in the sil-o-flex. This side wrap of tape firms up this joining point.

Taping Method:

The holed rubber stopper needs to be 1/2 inch into the shaft. It helps to make a mark at 1/2 inch onto the rubber stopper. Fiberglass-reinforced (strapping) tape is the only tape approved for securing the stopper into the shaft. You may NOT use electrical tape or any other type tape. The rules do not state a brand of strapping tape to use but I would suggest buy the best brand you can find and afford. It takes you just as long to put on cheap strapping tape as it does a better quality strapping tape. The big difference it holds much longer and is stronger.

If you use 3/4 inch wide fiberglass-reinforced (strapping) tape you can get by with using four pieces. They are selling another width that looks like 3/4 inch but isn't. You may end up needing another piece. If you use 1 inch tape you will end up using three pieces.

The standard is the tape must start from at least 1 inch on the sil-o-flex shaft, go up and over the rubber stopper and then down the shaft at least 1 inch. You repeat this process until the head is completely covered with strapping tape going down the sil-o-flex shaft 1 inch.

Then secure the lengths crossing over the blunt and down the shaft with a wrap around the shaft to secure the ends of the strapping tape. A second wrap of strapping tape will be around the shaft where the stopper goes into the sil-o-flex.

For purposes of these photos different colored electrical tape was used to contrast the taping method.  Electrical tape is not legal for securing the blunt into the sil-o-flex shaft. The fiberglass-reinforced strapping tape will not look as neat as the electrical tape does in the photos.

	Photo 1: Make a mark 1 inch down on the sil-o-flex shaft.   This is your reference line for tape. The blue tape is only used to show the reference line more clearly for the photo. A red or black magic marker will make a line you can see on the shaft. The photo shows the approved rubber stopper with a hole, with the 1/2 inch marked and a stopper 1/2 inch into the shaft. The blue tape is to show the 1 inch mark which is how far the strapping tape must go down the shaft.
	Photo 2:  Shows the first piece of tape going from the 1 inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 inch mark on the other side of the shaft.
	Photo 3:  Shows the second piece of tape going from the 1 inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 inch mark on the other side of the shaft.
	Photo 4:  Shows the third piece of tape going from the 1 inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 inch mark on the other side of the shaft.  This is filling in one of the gaps between the tape.
	Photo 5:  Shows the fourth piece of tape going from the 1 inch mark on the shaft up the side of the blunt, over the top and down the other side to the 1 inch mark on the other side of the shaft.  This is filling in the last gap between the tape.
	Photo 6: Shows a piece of tape (red for reference) wrapped around the shaft where the blunt goes into the sil-o-flex.
	Photo 7: Shows a piece of tape (red for reference) wrapped around the shaft to secure the ends of the tape coming down the shaft.

Foam for Rubber stopper heads:

 The top of the head must have resilient padding of at least 1⁄2 inch and at most 1 1/4  inches, (measured after taping).

 Foam must be secured with fiberglass reinforced tape, using same method as for securing the head on the shaft.

 The entire surface of the foam must be covered with fiberglass reinforced tape which extends down onto the shaft 1 inch.

 Secure the lengths of the fiberglass reinforced tape crossing over the foam and down the shaft with a wrap around the shaft to secure the ends of the strapping tape.

 A second wrap of strapping tape must be applied around the head where the foam and the head touch.  The tape must overlap both head and foam.  This side wrap of tape firms up this joining point.  Hint for shape and size

On August 22, 2008 and additional change was mandated by Society.  It states all Siloflex/Rubber Stopper ammunition must have a side wrap of foam added that brings the total diameter of the blunt to at least 1.5" after taping. This wrap must extend from the tip to at least 1/2" over the Siloflex itself.  So, after taping, the total diameter of the blunt needs to be at least 1.5 inches plus at least 1/2 inch of foam on the tip.

The head of all combat arrows and bolts must be completely covered with red tape. This is in the new combat archery rules for the Middle Kingdom. 5-18-2009

Fletches are considered optional, as long as they are securely attached and made of a soft, flexible material.  Fetches used to make a difference in the flight of the ammunition but I no longer recommend their use and suggest that no new ammunition be made using them.   The new Society rule states “ All fletches on any arrows, bolts, or thrown weapons can project no further than 1/2" from the shaft, or must be 1.5" thick.”   This reduced the width of the fin to the point that it no longer enhances the flight characteristics. 

If you do decide to make combat archery ammunition using fins or already have some, the fins MUST meet the construction rules that they were first approved under at Society level. 

The tail end of the sil-o-flex, or equivalent, must be left solid for at least 1 inch. Cuts no longer then 2 ½ inches may be made beyond that in order to install fletches but must have 3/16 inch holes drilled at the ends of each cut (stop holes) to keep the cut from spreading.

Notes

Resilient foam: The Society Definition is:  dense, plastic, closed-cell foam such as ethyl polymer. (Back To Text)

Hints for shape and size: A piece of rectangular foam on the tip will have a bulge (thicker) on two sides of the shaft and not on the other sides. A piece of square foam on the tip you will have four corners that will want to stick out further than the rest, even taped. I use a round piece of foam for padding tips. I have found using a round piece of foam that is 1.75 inches round works well.  By the time you tape the 1.75 piece of foam over the head (either style) you will be left with at least the 1.5 inch. (Back To Text)